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City · Périgord Blanc

Périgueux

The capital of the Dordogne, with a domed cathedral, a medieval quarter and Roman remains.

Périgueux, re-rendered from an openly licensed photo (Summer · Brochure blue · Midday)
Photo: Txllxt TxllxT (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons

Périgueux is the capital of the Dordogne department and the main town of the Périgord Blanc. It stands on the river Isle, with the five domes of Saint-Front cathedral rising above the old town.

It has two thousand years of history in one place: a Roman town called Vesunna, a medieval quarter around the cathedral and streets of Renaissance houses. It is also a busy market town, and its markets are some of the best in the department, especially in the winter truffle and foie gras season.

Where to stay
Area
Périgord Blanc
Best known for
Saint-Front cathedral, Roman remains, markets
Market days
Wednesday and Saturday mornings (check seasonal changes)
Time to allow
Half a day to a full day
World Heritage
Saint-Front is on the Routes of Santiago de Compostela listing
Combine with
Brantôme, Bourdeilles

Book direct

Where to stay near Périgueux

Saint-Front cathedral

Saint-Front is the building most people come to see. Its plan, a Greek cross with five domes, is unusual in France. Much of what you see today is the result of a heavy 19th-century restoration by Paul Abadie, who later designed the Sacré-Cœur in Paris, and the resemblance is clear.

The cathedral is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France. The interior is vast and plain, and the view of the domes is best from the river bank below.

The old town

Around the cathedral is a quarter of narrow streets, small squares and Renaissance town houses, many of them restored. It is mostly pedestrian and easy to explore on foot.

Look out for the carved doorways, stone staircases and courtyards, and the riverside houses along the Isle. The streets come alive on market days.

Roman Périgueux

The Roman town of Vesunna lay in the area now called the Cité, a short walk from the cathedral.

Vesunna museum
A museum built over the remains of a large Roman house, designed by Jean Nouvel.
Tour de Vésone
The tall ruined cella of a Roman temple, standing in a public garden.
The amphitheatre garden
A park on the site of the Roman amphitheatre, with some of its arches still standing.
Château Barrière
The ruin of a medieval house built on the Roman walls.
Musée d'Art et d'Archéologie du Périgord
The town's museum of art and archaeology, with prehistoric collections.

Markets

Périgueux has markets in the old town, traditionally on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, spreading through several squares around the cathedral. In winter there are special markets for foie gras and truffles. Check the current calendar before you plan around them.

There are plenty of restaurants and cafés in the old town. This is a good place to try the classic dishes of the Périgord, from duck to walnut cake.

Planning your visit

Périgueux is a sizeable town and traffic can be slow. There are car parks around the old town. Check current arrangements before you travel, particularly on market days.

From Sarlat allow for a drive of over an hour. A long day can combine Périgueux with Brantôme.

What to combine with Périgueux

Brantôme, with its abbey on the river Dronne, is north of the town and makes an easy pairing. Nearby Bourdeilles has a castle above the same river.

The town also makes a good base for exploring the Périgord Blanc and the south of the Périgord Vert.

Questions about Périgueux

Is Périgueux worth visiting?

Yes. It has the cathedral, a fine old town, Roman remains and some of the best markets in the department.

Why does Saint-Front cathedral look like the Sacré-Cœur?

Its 19th-century restoration was led by Paul Abadie, who went on to design the Sacré-Cœur in Paris.

What is Vesunna?

The Roman name for Périgueux. The Vesunna museum shows the remains of a large Roman house.

What day is the market in Périgueux?

Markets are traditionally held on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. Check the current calendar before you travel.

How far is Périgueux from Sarlat?

It is a drive of over an hour to the north-west.

Opening times, prices and parking change. Check before you travel: Périgueux tourist office, Dordogne Périgord tourism.